Lighten Your Load . . . .

 

There are some tricks you can use to lighten up that ruck / pack / sack (or whatever you call that huge transport bag you strap on your back when you want to move your “things” over long distances by foot.)

Most importantly packing your ruck sack correctly, more so, distributing the weight correctly by the order in which items of differing weight are packed, really helps the fatigue factor when hiking or rucking.  Read about that here:  http://defensivetraininggroup.wordpress.com/2013/09/16/ruck-sack-packing-a-primer/

Aside from that, there are some ways to “shave” ounces and eventually pounds off your overall ruck weight so you can go farther in a shorter amount of time.  Regardless of your objective, if you have a survival load on your back you need to pack with you the things that will continue your heart beating.  Here is an excellent article on the packing priorities in regard to survival in hostile environments:  http://mountainguerrilla.wordpress.com/2013/04/05/travel-light-freeze-at-night-comments-and-notes-on-packing-the-bug-out-baggo-bagpatrol-pack/

 

Now, in the context of those two articles . . . .

Here are some ideas / products that will help you save some ounces:

The Sawyer MINIFilter:  Fits in the palm of the hand small.  Filters out all sorts of things that make you have the “runs” such as ecoli, bacteria, protozoa, cysts, giardia, etc, etc.  (those are the ones that can make you really really sick).  The filter is good for 100,000 gallons of water (and comes with a back-flushing kit).  Which if you use 2 gallons of filtered water a day . . . would last you for over 130 years.  Over 65 years if you and another person are using it.  It only weighs a few ounces. 

 

*If viruses are a concern, you might consider adding a small bottle and household bleach and eye dropper to your pack.  Read the previous post on waterborne viruses to understand what they are and what they are not. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Vargo TitaniumHexagon Pack Stove:  Again, it only weighs a few ounces.  The stove is very efficient, blocks the wind, and folds up into a very thin space.  The ability to build a small contained but efficient fire could be a key survival ingredient you need. This especially is the case if you do not want to broadcast to anyone in the area your presence with huge beach fire flames.  The GLSC Team packs this Vargo stove wherever we go in the wild.

Wiggy's Sleeping Bags:  Pound for pound, Wiggy's Lamilite filled sleeping bags and garments, wick water the best, and provide the best insulation when the temps go down, than any other product on the market.  "ask us how we know".  Wiggy's 5 lb sleeping bag offers cold weather insulating qualities that beat a bag with twice the weight. 

*The fact that these relatively light weight bags have saved lives, when guys in the field have broke through a frozen lake without any available rescue crew to bring them back is a testament to the value of the product.

GLSC Level 1 Wilderness First Aid Kit:  Big enough to handle your wilderness first aid emergencies but light weight enough to carry all day and not know it's there.

Knife Sharpening Supplies:  Need to keep your knife sharp?  Try a leather hone with hone compound instead of a heavy stone.  Made for GLSC here in Michigan, we carry these to touch up our knives in the field.  This will save at least a pound in your pack.

Killing Waterborne Viruses with Bleach



Understanding the threat that Waterborne Viruses pose to humans:

http://backcountrywater.com/water-contaminants/viruses/viruses/


Combating Viruses after the water has been filtered:
http://www.newjerusalem.com/PureWater.htm

WATER PURIFICATION 1)  Clear water is a sign of pure water. Always drain long-standing pipes for 30 seconds to one minute before drinking! (Cheap remote motels?) 2)  1 Gallon water is disinfected by 8-16 drops of regular household bleach (visually about 1/4 of a teaspoon) - double that for cloudy water. Shake and let stand 30 minutes. One teaspoon will disinfect 5 gallons. Immediately after treating, water must initially have a slight smell of chlorine. If it does not - repeat the process. 3)  Household bleach is relatively harmless. The smell or �waft� of chlorine is not bad: it indicates that water is treated and germ free. Once treated and disinfected, the chlorine smell will go away in a few days. 4)  Regularly used water from large tanks may be treated once or twice a month with 1 Oz. bleach per 200 gallons or 5 Oz. bleach per 1000 gallons.  5)  Long-standing water in tanks will be disinfected w/ 1 pint household bleach per 1000 gallons. (2500 gal tanks are fine with 3 pints.)  6)  Bleach effectively kills bacteria and viruses, stops smells and then breaks down. It's effective germ killing alkaline property is completely neutralized very quickly. It does not stay chemically active in tanks for more than a few days. Most germs require sunlight to grow. Store water in the dark. 7)  If water is relatively clear: but has a noticeable smell of chlorine: it is drinkable, disinfected, and harmless. Humans need 2 quarts per day.

 
Comments The above text is designed to be printed, cut-out, and taped inside a cabinet door, or saved as a reminder. 6 % sodium hypochlorite solution, referred to as " common household chlorine bleach", is not a seriously poisonous substance to humans. It is an alkaline salt. It is not an "acid".  However It very, very effectively kills bacteria and viruses upon contact. It is the world-wide chemical of choice for treating drinking water, or for effectively sterilizing everything from shower stalls to surgical instruments. Truthfully, very heavily chlorinated water may be more irritating to the lungs - if it is used for showers, than it is harmful to the intestinal tract if used for drinking purposes. Even drinking straight household bleach rarely results in death. The alkaline properties of undiluted bleach may cause painful chemical burns to the esophagus and stomach - but it is not deadly poisonous. Bleach must always be kept out of the reach of children - because not only might they drink it - they may get it in their eyes.  All long-standing water that is exposed to air and sunlight grows bacteria and other organisms which may include the very troublesome protozoa, Giardia. These organisms may cause people to become very sick. Iodine has long been carried by back-packers for cases of emergency because very small long-lasting tablets effectively disinfect germ infected water. Iodine is at least 1000 times more toxic than is sodium hypochlorite (bleach). Unlike sodium hypochlorite, iodine does not break down. It does, however, cause an unpleasant taste in treated water. This is why back packers are given the option to carry a taste neutralizing tablet for use if water has been treated with iodine. Iodine does remain in the body. Iodine poisoning is of greater concern for longer term situations than is the slight smell of bleach. In any regular situation, bleach is the by far the preferred method for purifying drinking water because it effectively kills harmful organisms, and then it breaks down and is quickly chemically neutralized.  It should be noted that fish, mosquitoes, algae, etc. can not - and do not live - in poisonous water. Given the choice between two still ponds in the wild: one with mosquitos, or algae growing in it -- and another near-by it, which may be seemingly clear - I would prefer to drink the water that has the organic life growing in it. The other standing water, even though it appears clear - is obviously unusable or undesirable to other living organisms and therefore it may be poisonous.  New well-water should ALWAYS be tested by the drilling company to determine if the water coming from the ground is truly safe for drinking. Ground water can be unsuitable for a number of reasons, but in general it is very good water. Without any doubt, the easiest way to insure clean, safe, pure drinking water, is to instal a water purification system that acts both as a filter, and a purifier. These are the common water purification systems available everywhere. They filter particles and purify the water from bacteria, viruses and other harmful chemicals. An EXCELLENT portable water purification device can be purchased for emergency use for under $70.00. Home water purification systems, even purifiers that attach directly to the water tap - are absolutely excellent! This is the best way to actually insure that the water you are drinking is clean and pure. These systems, which act both as filters, and purifiers - are the systems of choice for any rational person. It is nice to know the ratio's of bleach necessary for disinfecting water if one fears that water may be contaminated - but this is intended for people who use large water tanks, or to be guide-lines for serious emergency situations. For normal living, modern water purification systems are definitely the methods of choice for eliminating bacteria, viruses, smells, and other undesirable substances.

The Will to Prepare to Win



You may have heard this before:  “"The key is not the will to win... everybody has that. It is the will to prepare to win that is important." – Bobby Knight (remember that hot-headed NCAA basketball coach?  Yep that’s the him.)

I’d venture to say the will to prepare to win is an often overlooked skill set in today’s microwaveable ready world.  Can anyone blame us?  We’ve been programmed to take care of things at the last minute.  Everything we want, we get because of “just in time” logistics at the super-market or convenience stores.  With lay-away and credit cards do we really even have to plan and save for what we want?  And believe me, we’re not pointing any fingers.  The “just-in-time” thing effects all of us.

However, there are some things I think we can all agree that deserve a little farther look down the road when it comes to planning a favorable outcome for the protection of our family.  Taking time and spending a few dollars to learn or send ourselves for retraining when it comes to survival, self-defense and first aid can mean the difference in life and death.  Trying not to be melodramatic, the reality is that training equals proficiency and proficiency equals the speed in which we can help save lives, defend threats and find safety.

And unfortunately we can type away on blogs, write books, and theorize about what’s what, but it doesn’t replace getting “out there” with qualified instructors and learning new skills, or for some of us, knocking the rust off and retraining.  It’d be nice if it weren’t so, but survival skill sets are a perishable good if not used regularly. 

And that’s where the tag line comes in:  Having the will to win in a bad situation is common, but having the will to prepare to win is stacking the deck in your favor and is the key.  Having the will to get out there and prepare to win (by training) against life threatening situations is a great start.  Our families deserve the best protection we can offer.

Luckily for us there are a number of private companies in several different regions of the US that are willing to train law abiding citizens in wilderness survival, self-defense and first aid:  John Mosby (West & Northwest), SFMedic(East / Southeast), Max Velocity (East), DTG (Great Lakes) .  These are just to name a few.  It seems that most students are satisfied when finding training instructors who’s expertise is vouched for by those in their respective community of contact.  Equally important is feedback from fulfilled students.

Life gets in the way sometimes, but it’s important to take the time to prepare to beat the odds of a SHTF situation.  We hope that as summer is waning this post finds you and your family healthy and full of energy.  Perhaps we’ll see you in the field when it’s time to retrain some of those survival skills.

Field Dressing Small Game

After you snare your game,  you have to dress it and prepare it for cooking.

It's really simple.

*On a side note, be careful to cook your game thoroughly.  Parasites are nasty little things that will transfer from game to the carnivore in uncooked meat.  Generally small game taken between the first frost and the last frost of the season is safer to eat than if taken in the middle of August.

All things being equal, if cooking game in the wild, make sure it's very well done, and eliminate the possibility of parasite transfer all together.

A good indication of disease or parasites in small game is a spotted liver.

Below is a great little video on cleaning that rabbit you just trapped.

*Second side note when it comes to rabbits:  They don't have enough fat in their meat.  If your diet consisted only of rabbit and nothing else you would eventually die of protein poisoning.  Some people say you can help combat that by eating the rabbit brain and eyeballs.

The human body needs a balanced diet of protein, fats and carbs.  Like a three legged stool, without any of those, the machine will break down.

*Animals that provide fatty meats:  Beavers, turtles, porcupines, fish, bear and edible insects.  Edible insects are almost 100% fat.  So if you have rabbit on the menu, make sure you supplement it with a fatty side dish.

  

Thanks for reading

Snare your way to a full belly

Here's a great little video from youtube.com on setting up a snare along a game trail. 

When teaching wilderness survival we suggest approaching food procurement with this thought in mind:  You should have a survival firearm for hunting game (and personal protection), but don't rely solely on your hunting skills, or you will starve.  One must be able to trap / snare game.

Think about it:  You can set 12 traps up, that are quiet and ready to catch game for you, 24/7.  They won't get tired and fall asleep and they won't get discouraged and quit.  While you are sheltered up or purifying water, your traps are still working hard to catch any game that might happen by. 

So while you're trying to line up a good shot with your survival .22 on that squirrel, you might do it with less pressure if you know that you have the support of your own little work force of traps waiting to catch your next meal.

In the wild, it's about minimizing your effort while maximizing your gain.

Commercial snares are affordable enough to buy and are 10 times more fool proof than improvised versions.  You can find 24 small game snares shipped to your location for about $25.   

Thanks for reading.

Dangerous Critter Protection

 

 



As an adult human, it's natural to want to protect yourself and your family in the wilderness.  If you realize that wilderness is a beautiful but potentially dangerous place, you obviously have common sense.  When frequenting areas that have critters such as cougars, bears, wolves or hogs, you might (insert "should" instead of "might") carry at least a powerful handgun for protection.

Below is an article written by Tim Sundles on the topic of "Stopping bears with a handgun".  It's a true "been there, done that" look at what it takes to put down a dangerous animal in the wild.  Some of what he has to say may surprise you.  In the age of information, where internet forums are full of tall tales, it's nice to go to a place like www.buffalobore.com for your ammo purchases and recommendations.  Rest assured that this guy knows his stuff.  We believe in his products because we've used them. 

We also recommend that you read his article on preparedness in relation to the ammo shortages we've had this year. 

https://www.buffalobore.com/themes/modern_black/AMMUNITION%20SHORTAGES%20AND%20PERSONAL%20PREPAREDNESS.pdf

From his writings, Tim Sundles seems be a Patriot who understands the problems facing American Freedoms today.  We appreciate business owners who not only have an excellent product but who are not afraid to stand up for American Liberty and say what needs to be said.  So if you want some great ammo, take a trip over to Buffalo Bore and support an American business.  Chances are you've probably already heard of them.

 

 

“Stopping” bears with handgun or rifle cartridges - By Tim Sundles

https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=108

I get asked about this OFTEN. Having killed dozens of bear and guided hunters for dozens more, I have firsthand knowledge. Additionally, I have been hanging around bear guides all my adult life and between us, we’ve seen over a thousand bears killed. We have come to some consensus on the best tools and methods of killing bears with guns.

First, not all bears are the same. Grizzly bears have a much different mindset than the black bears species. To stop a grizzly attack, you will PROBABLY have to kill it, but sometimes all you have to do is to hurt it badly and the bear will become dissuaded. So, when planning to stop grizzly attacks, it is best to use a cartridge that will kill it—the quicker the better. Interior grizzlies normally get no bigger than 500 lbs, but in Montana, I’ve seen interior bears around 900 lbs., but this is very rare.  Coastal grizzlies, sometimes known as Alaskan Brown Bears, often exceed 1000 lbs. If you are relying on shoulder or heart/lung shots to kill such a bear, it takes a lot of cartridge. One that will make a big hole that goes very deeply through bone and into internal organs. If you hit him fatally in the chest area, you will then have roughly 15 to 30 seconds to stay alive before the bear learns he is dead.  If you are relying on brain shots, it is not all that hard to kill adult grizzly bears. Almost any center fire cartridge of 357 bore or larger with a very hard non-expanding, flat nosed bullet will pierce a bears skull with direct /frontal (between the eyes) hits. From the side angle, shoot them right at the bottom of the ear canal. These two shots are instant death, if you are using correct ammo. The old MYTH that bullets will slide off a bear’s skull is pure hogwash, when using modern ammo featuring bullets that will not mushroom when fired out of a powerful handgun. When using high powered rifles, it is OK if the bullet mushrooms as the high velocity of the rifle bullet, will puncture the bears skull regardless, because of its high velocity. 150 years ago, when the early settlers were heading west, the muzzle loaders they used, fired pure lead (very soft) round balls that would or could flatten out against bone and possibly slide off, leaving only a surface wound, when hitting a bears head. Unless you are using pure lead bullets that are rounded, this situation is no longer a concern.

Black bears are very different mentally, than grizzly bears. Black bears come in red, brown, blonde, and black color phases, but they are all black bear species and should be considered “black bears” regardless of color phase. While black bears have much the same physical qualities (normally smaller) of grizzly bears, they GENERALLY have a much different mindset.
To stop black bears, all you have to do is hurt them; you do not need to kill them. Almost any center fire handgun cartridge will dissuade a black bear if you hit them well with it. The more powerful the cartridge, the more damage you’ll potentially do to the bear, but nearly any black bear will turn tail if he is hit with a cartridge such as good stiff 9mm load. I know this argues against prevailing wisdom, but prevailing wisdom is based mostly on speculation, not real world experience and is not really wisdom.

We make “bear loads” in smaller chamberings such as 9mm, (item 24F) 38 SPL+P, (item 20H) and 357 mag. (item 19A). We do this because a lot of people own those guns and don’t want to buy a 454 Casull or 44 mag. I would have no problem defending myself against a black bear attack (and have done so) with the proper 9mm ammo. I prefer a more powerful/bigger cartridge, but the 9MM will get it done, even on grizzlies, if you take their brain. Of course, making a brain shot under such duress, will take practice and cool nerves.

I hike, ride horses, hunt and fish in grizzly country. When relying on a handgun, I carry a 500 or 475 Linebaugh with heavy hard cast, flat nosed bullets. It hammers grizzlies. Such a revolver weighs no more than a standard Ruger Black Hawk, but has the killing power of a moderately powerful rifle cartridge. I find the big heavy X frame revolvers (500 S&W and 460 S&W) too heavy for hiking in steep country all day, but they do possess incredible power. However, if I am going to carry a handgun that weighs 5+ pounds, I’d just as soon carry a 6 pound rifle chambered in 45-70 that has a longer sight radius, more power and is shoulder mounted.

If I carry a rifle in grizzly country, which I do often, I carry a lever action 45-70 for summer horse pack trips, hikes and fishing excursions. I load it with Buffalo Bore items 8A, 8B or 8C. All three of these loads flatten grizzlies. I carry a revolver chambered in 500 Linebaugh too, along with the rifle. The handgun stays on my person in a shoulder holster and the rifle stays on the horse or in camp, unless I am feeling the need to have it in my hands, which does and has happened and has kept me from being injured/killed more than once. I have used both revolvers and rifles on bears, several times. When I elk hunt in grizzly country, I normally use a 338 Win. Mag. With proper ammo, the 338 Win Mag. is a decisive grizzly stopper. See our items 52A, 52B and 52D, (which will be released before summer 2012) for this application.

There are many in our society who believe the life of an animal has equal or greater value than that of a human. I disagree. A bear is a wild animal, that when not threatening human life, is a wonderful sight. However, when I encounter bears that act aggressively by popping their teeth, woofing, swinging their head from side to side, charging, etc. I shoot them. I do not give them a prolonged chance to kill my wife, children, myself or any one that is with me. When I encounter bears (which I do several times per year) that run at my sight or smell, they are safe from me because I know I am safe from them. When they show aggression to humans, it is irresponsible to let them live as they will eventually permanently harm or kill someone. I don’t care that our governmental wild life agencies are protecting bears. They are generally misguided in this tactic. The notion that bears are a spiritual, magical life form that has value over human life, is a point of view that not only comes from the typical tree hugger groups/mindset, but it is coming from various fish and game agencies, more and more often. I choose to protect human life over animal life, period.  The notion that bears were here before us and therefore have rights to maul us, is not only untrue, but even if it was true, I am here NOW and assert my right to be so.

Bear aggression and attacks are far more common that most fish and game agencies want to report. In 2011, in Montana, there were seven REPORTED grizzly attacks on humans. Some of them were fatal to the human. Others simply mauled the human, who recovered from injuries. There were doubtless more attacks, but they happened to capable and prepared individuals who simply killed the bear and walked away, never wanting the problems that come with reporting the incident to “authorities”. I’ve had more scrapes with black bears than I have with grizzlies, but that is probably because there are a lot more black bears in the woods. Do not let yourself be misled by fish and game agencies that claim “black bears are not dangerous” or likewise about grizzlies. There is no need to be afraid of bears, but there is great reason to be informed and prepared. For those who don’t feel the need to be prepared in bear country, that is your right, but what about your obligation to protect your loved ones and others who rely on you? Every time I see an interview with a wild life official explaining away a recent fatal bear attack, they ALWAYS say something to the effect of “such bear attacks are extremely rare bla, bla, bla”. Truth is that bear attacks are not all that rare if you spend time in bear country and even if such attacks were rare, the person that has just experienced one, had a 100% chance of being attacked, no?

Defensive Training Group - The Buddy Team



Hats off to DTG for an excellent post on the basic building block for multiplying your chances of survival . . . with the Buddy Team.

Two brains are better than one, especially in a FUBAR situation.

http://defensivetraininggroup.wordpress.com/2013/04/20/basic-building-block-the-buddy-team/

Basic Building Block: The Buddy Team

Posted by Defensive Training Group on April 20, 2013

Posted in: Small Unit Tactics. Leave a Comment

 

Nearly everyone has an idea about what a ‘Buddy Team’ should be, but not many people can actually articulate their expectations. That’s the point of this post: To provide you with some basic essentials of what the ‘Buddy Team’ is and what you can expect of your ‘Buddy’. You can, and should, build Buddy Teams in your family as well as the rest of your tribe. Working in pairs increases probability of survival significantly.

Your buddy is just as important as your rifle, your knife, or your fire making device to your survival! Without your buddy, your chances of survival are diminished by such a large percentage that you must face the fact that you have very little chance to survive a hostile encounter in a SHTF scenario, short of Devine intervention.

So then, what is your responsibility as a ‘Buddy’? Here are some good guidelines:

o Always watch your buddy’s back because he’s watching yours!
o Never take more from your buddy than you can give (supplies, time, support, etc).
o Know that your buddy is your best friend, even if he’s jumping your ass to get you to learn something new or do something better!
o Never lie to your buddy (lie to anyone outside your tribe all you want, but never to your buddy)!
o Never leave your buddy behind unless he’s dead.
o Never betray your buddy – Loyalty that can be bought is despicable!
o Learn his rifle as well as you know your own if his is different.
o Learn where everything is on his harness and make him learn where everything is on yours, especially those things that will keep him alive!
o Get to know him! This means outside of training: Trust is built this way!
o Be ready to listen to him when he’s got a problem.
o Be honest with him about your own weaknesses and strengths. You can’t build your team on bullshit.
o Take the calculated risk to build trust with each other. NOW! Yeah, it’s hard when you first get to know each other, but you’ve got a pair of balls, right?
o If your Buddy has more experience than you, admit it to yourself and listen to him!
o Always give your best to and for your buddy-no exceptions!
o Be a friend, because he could be the only one you’ve got when the SHTF!

How to Make Pemmican

 

 



H/T to www.tacticalintelligence.net for this instructional post for the making of Pemmican.

http://www.tacticalintelligence.net/blog/how-to-make-pemmican.htm

Need some food that's light weight and nutritious for that long trip into the bush?  Why not Pemmican?

"Pemmican is a concentrated mixture of fat and protein used as a nutritious food. The word comes from the Cree word pimîhkân, which itself is derived from the word pimî, "fat, grease".^[1] It was invented by the native peoples of North America.^[2][3] It was widely adopted as a high-energy food by Europeans involved in the fur trade and later by Arctic and Antarctic explorers, such as Robert Falcon Scott and Roald Amundsen. "

"Traditionally, pemmican was prepared from the lean meat of large game such as buffalo, elk or deer. The meat was cut in thin slices and dried over a slow fire, or in the hot sun until it was hard and brittle. About five pounds of meat are required to make one pound of dried meat suitable for pemmican. Then it was pounded into very small pieces, almost powder-like in consistency, using stones. The pounded meat was mixed with melted fat in an approximate 1:1 ratio.^[5] In some cases, dried fruits such as saskatoon berries, cranberries, blueberries, or choke cherries were pounded into powder and then added to the meat/fat mixture. The resulting mixture was then packed into rawhide pouches for storage.
A bag of buffalo pemmican weighing about 90 pounds was called a Taureau by the Métis of Red River.^[6] It generally took the meat of one buffalo to fill a Taureau."

Winter Survival Tips



 

One of the good things about being with Great Lake Survival is that the friends and family of this company actually get out in the wilderness to practice their survival skills on a regular basis.  It would be easy to sit behind the computer screen all the time.  Although it takes discipline to continually get out and practice what you know . . . it helps us keep grounded.  Not to mention staying out in the bush keeps giving us things to write about :)

 

Winter Survival Tips

(some of these tips we've had funny stories with, some of them more serious stories)

 

1.  Listen to your teammates:  When 3 guys on a 4 man team are telling you important task "X" would be better done by doing A instead of B (and if you screw up on B it costs your whole team a lot of work), it would pay to listen to the team.  After all, if you willingly go far enough into the bush to need a chopper out if someone gets hurt, you better trust the people you're with enough to listen to them.

 

2.  Sizing up the situation? Ever heard a coach say, "you will play in the game, the way you practice on the field". Constantly goofing off, or wasting energy, because it's just training . . . well that's not smart. Every time we go into winter survival training - it IS a survival situation. Weather can change an easy going training session into a butt-kicker in no time, let alone adding an injured team member into the mix.

 

3.  Have purpose in the morning:  During winter training, in the morning getting out of the bag and lean to is a dangerous time.  Usually everything is still bitterly cold, one's internal furnace is starving for food so that it can produce warmth.  The hands and feet will freeze up a lot quicker than usual.  There's a short period of time once the frozen boots are on to get a fire going, get hot liquids going or get moving if you need to bug out.  It's a mistake to get out of the sack without a purpose and sense of urgency.  It usually is a mistake only made once though.  Hypothermia is a B! 

 

4.  Sno-seal leather boots:  It's inexpensive, it works, it keeps your leather flexible and dry.  When the temp dumps really low, wet boots freeze up, so that the next morning it's like trying to get on a glass vase over the feet.  Sno-seal will keep leather pack boots from getting saturated with wet snow, keeping them flexible.

 

5.  Void the bladder before bed:  Some of the best advice we've ever heard.  Getting out of the bag in the middle of the night wastes energy.  Urinals make the risk of getting urine in the bag . . .

 

6.  Get some Wiggy's gear:  Wiggy's brand outdoor gear is pretty darn good stuff.  Boots, Sleeping bags, Gloves, Coats, Ground pads and Sweaters.  Wiggy's gear is insulated with Lamilite, which insulates even when wet, better than anything on the planet.  It wicks water like no other.  Seriously it's awesome stuff.  If you have to be in the bitterly cold, do it with Wiggy's by your side.  Trust us, we've tested the snot out of their products. 

 

Hopefully your winter survival training gives you some nuggets of wisdom to share.  If you get out to test your skills, God bless ya.

 

 

Transcending Fear

Transcending Fear
Author: Brian Germain

This isn't a formal book review.  More so, it's just a gentle nudge in the direction of a good read.  Brian is a World Champion skydiver, test pilot and psychologist.  He offers a unique and personalized perspective on the phenomenon of fear.

As this relates to "survival" in any situation, whether it be wilderness, self-defense, or any other FUBAR situation, "we" need to learn to continue functioning in the presence of fear.

Brian does a great job explaining how our perception of fear actually shuts down parts of our brain that let us think creatively to solve problems when under stress.  So in a sense, high stress situations tend to make our brain stupid, we lose fine motor skills, etc.

We don't have to start shutting down like that though.  And simply saying the phrase "no fear", will not help you prepare one for a high stress situation.  The reality is that we must face our fears, and do it continually.

We can have all the survival gear, the best outdoor boots, the best custom bushcraft knife, bug out bags, and the say all the catch phrases, but unless we train our minds to react positively to whatever it is that scares us, we haven't properly prepared ourselves for unexpected events.

We must learn to "flow" in bad situations, understanding that the only important thing, is the next step to take to correct whatever issue we are facing.

We believe that this book takes an honest look at facing fear head on.





Level 1 Survival Kit - Re-visited

 

 

The Level 1 Kit pictured serves as a primer for setting up your survival kit the way you want it.

We love the idea of having consolidated and compartmentalized kit organization.  The level 1 kit below, is right there on the knife! 

 

Of course this kit is not complete.  There are some pocket items that you would want to have, such as a compact water purifier, compass, 4 mil plastic sheet, etc.  However, it is set up in a way that you could meet immediate wilderness survival needs. 

 

With a figure 4 para cord lace pattern, it's very easy to attach a Molle type pouch to your favorite knife sheath and have almost all your level 1 survival items right on your knife.

 

Here we show an Ek Model 5 Bowie.  You can see the sheath has had a snap added to the Velcro closure.  (Just a little extra insurance against losing one of my favorite survival knives.)

 

In a normal Molle pistol pouch, we were able to add a fire steel and scraper, fishing line, fishing hooks, cotton balls with Vaseline as tinder, water purification tabs, and a miniature leather hone for sharpening.

This post is just food for thought.  Really the para cord lacing on the sheath makes this all possible.  I'm sure there's a million and one ways to add a utility pouch to your knife sheath, this is just one.

It sure is easy to grab one knife, strap it on the belt and have a way to get food, build fire, and construct shelter, all in one package.

Providing some more food for thought,

Thanks for reading,

- The Great Lake Survival Team

The .22 Survival Pistol

 

Everybody has one of these tucked in a waterproof container inside their ruck sack right?

For what it weighs, the match grade .22 pistol can mean a great deal to the stranded survivor who is either trying to be found, or escape and evade.  From taking wild game to quietly defending one’s life, for the return on investment you cannot beat a match grade .22 pistol.

Major benefits of the .22 Survival Pistol

 

1. 150 rounds of .22LR ammo weighs very little
2. Generally quiet report when rounds are fired compared to larger caliber handguns
3. Pretty decent accuracy with match grade sights / trigger out to 60 yards
4. Ability to take up to deer size game with proper shot placement
5. Highly concealable and easy to keep waterproof for long term storage in a ruck

It’s generally accepted that being able to shoot golf balls at 25 meters is a pretty good standard for accuracy.  If you can hit a golf ball with your .22 pistol 9 out of 10 times at that range, you’re doing well.

Match grade iron sights work well, but optics give one a better chance to hit what they’re aiming at.  A note though, . . . if you do have optics on your survival pistol, make sure you have quick release levers in case your scope gets “boogered” and goes “tits up”.

Browning, Smith & Wesson and Ruger make the most recognized match grade .22 pistols.  They are all easy to customize with optics, lights, ammo and grips.

As far as ammo goes, your “survival pistol” can eat all sorts of specialized .22 LR rounds.

We recommend you try different types of .22 rounds as long as they are specifically made for your firearm, and see how they perform for you.

One last note, a day at the range with the .22 pistol can be fun for you, your spouse and your young adult.  Ammo costs next to nothing, and learning to shoot builds confidence in one’s person.

Thanks for reading,

The Great Lake Survival Team

Getting "Out There"

It sure is great to hit the out doors, especially when the weather is great.  When the sun shines and a nice summer breeze is blowing, it makes for great times.  When it’s nice out, we gravitate to the outdoors, and as we should.

On the other hand, it sure is valuable to get into the outdoors and stay a night or two in the cold and blowing rain.  We’re talking about training your survival skills.  They get rusty if they’re not taken out and worked once in a while.  Training doesn’t have to be miles from civilization.  In fact spending a night or two in your backyard in bad weather cements your survival studies.  There’s nothing wrong with reading about survival skills, but there comes a time when we have to practice what we’ve read about.

Survival training is something of importance if we want to take care of those we love in a less than desirable situation.  We cannot get around it.  There are literally a bunch of “how to” and opinions on what works in the wilderness, scattered all over the net.  A lot of it is good stuff.  I tend to wonder if there are as many people “getting out there” and testing their knowledge in bad weather, as there are opinions on survival skills.  Rhetorical question . . .

It’s easy to type up articles about wilderness survival.  Everyone has an opinion, and that’s not a bad thing.  That’s where new ideas and innovation come from.   But getting into the nasty weather or testing out setting up a camp in 50 mph winds, or being wet for 72 hours in continuous rain or camping in temperatures just about 0 degrees will teach invaluable lessons.  That’s quite another thing.  Ideas, innovation and opinions are very necessary, but so is the component of experience.  Training our skills gives us the ability to learn from uncomfortable situations that we can control, instead of learning by the seat of our pants in situations that are BAD and FOR REAL.  Unfortunately we cannot always benefit from other’s experiences.  No one could ever explain what it means to be hungry to someone who’s never felt a hunger pang.  Some things we just have to experience for ourselves.

If you’re the person who “gets out there” more than just a few times, in the nasty weather, in the less than ideal conditions to train what you’ve learned, hats off to you.  If you are the person that “gets out there”, life probably has a flavor that it doesn’t for others.  Having been through high winds, torrential down pours and frigid weather camping; perhaps a calm evening next to a camp fire has warmth in your mind that others really don’t know.

We’re not suggesting people put their lives in unnecessary peril.  But once in a while it’s okay to get wet, get cold and get uncomfortable.  That’s where the people at GLSC have learned the most important lessons, and it’s where we continue to learn lessons.  Behind a computer screen isn’t where true learning takes place, (it can be a great resource though!).  “Out there” is where the learning takes place.  It’s where we learn lessons that we can pass down to our children and our children’s children.

The Great Lake Survival motto is “Tough Products for Tough People”.  The reality is that our most important product are our experiences.  We’re the ones who take our experiences, and ultimately turn them into what we want to be: Tough People.

Thanks for reading,

- GLSC Team

The “Bug-Out-Bag” and METT-TC

Every survival blog, editorial, forum or article has discussed the over used term “bug-out-bag” or BOB for short.  There’s nothing really wrong with the term other than that it can be misleading to the purpose for which it serves.

First, the BOB is generally viewed within the “survival community” as a small to medium size satchel or backpack that holds essential survival items that one might need if they were displaced from their domicile or area of operations, i.e. their hometown.

Okay, you have a BOB, the question remains, where are you bugging out to and why?  Quite honestly, your BOB could be helping you get you and loved ones back home in a bad situation, not getting away from home.  I think that gets over looked.  You might not be using your BOB to go anywhere at all; you might just be helping apply first aid to a person who’s stuck in a traffic jam that doesn’t have access to an ambulance.  This brings up a good point:  The best BOB is the one you have with you when you need it.  So don’t be without it.  If you have your car with you all the time, keep one in there.

What should you put in your BOB?  The BOB isn’t supposed to have everything but the kitchen sink inside.  Then it would become a heavy ruck sack and you wouldn’t be as likely to have it with you.  There are so many things that “could” be useful to have, where’s a good place to start?

You might be familiar with the military acronym: METT-TC.  If you’re not, it’s used in military operation planning.  You might not be planning a military operation, but planning is no less important when considering what items to carry in your BOB.

Below is the breakdown of what METT-TC stands for and some of the factors that might come to mind during planning.

METT-TC STANDS FOR:

Mission, Enemy, Terrain & Weather, Troops & Support available, Time available, Civil considerations.

MISSION:  Your mission should be to get yourself and/or your loved ones to safety, and more resources that you cannot carry with you.  This will bring up questions like, how far could I possibly be traveling?  Who will I be trying to get to safety with me?  The mission can change at anytime, and it’s important to remember that.

ENEMY:  Your enemy will be anything or anyone that threatens your life.  The elements, injury, lack of water, exhaustion, and hostile people in a bad part of town.  The list goes on.

TERRAIN & WEATHER:  What region do you live in?  What time of year is it? Snow can easily effect southern US states more than northern states.  If I did not have transportation could I get to safety and more resources on foot? These are things to thing about.

TROOPS & SUPPORT:  For civilian purposes, this comes down to: Am I own my own or do I have friends to help me out?  Maybe I don’t have to traverse 20 miles on foot with no transportation, when my friends that live only 5 miles away are willing to help me.  It always helps to have predetermined support for “bad times”.  Being a hermit is not a good thing to do.  Have friends and lots of friends you can count on, and who can also count on you.  A 20 mile drive home from work during severe tornado weather might not be so bad if your buddy lives right around the corner and has a basement.

TIME:  How much time do you have available to have to accomplish your mission?  Your mission is to get you and yourself to safety and more resources during a “bad event” right?  Okay, so how quickly do you think you can make that happen?  How much time do you have to get things done before other issues become a factor?  Time may or may not be on your side.

CIVILIAN CONSIDERATIONS:  Just as important as terrain and weather, are the considerations of the people you might come in contact with during a “bad event”.  What is the population level like?  Is it rural or urban?  What is the civilian culture like?  Do they not like outsiders, are you considered an outsider?  This is important when realizing that the people around you can be support, enemy or just indifferent to your existence.  If you’re familiar with the area you are in during a “bad event”, you might be able to better read the populous around you and predict whether you’re going to run into support, enemy or indifference.


In the picture above, I’ve listed my “Bug out Bag”.  You might notice the items show are a pistol, extra mags, a holster, head lamp, a lighter, paracord, a wrist compass, a bottle of water, assorted Band-Aids, medicines and creams, a topo/road map, a tube of peanut butter, a survival straw, a tourniquet, a compression bandage and a good size folding knife.


All of these items fit very nicely into a rather small BOB.  I can always have it with me.  It fits my mission requirements, which because we are not all the same person, are different than yours.  My BOB fits my area of operation and has taken into consideration the distance I regularly travel from better and more resources.

Regardless of what you call your Bug Out Bag, hopefully you do similar “mission” planning when considering what you put into it.  Not every BOB is same, because your mission might be different. So don’t feel like yours should have a trendy kit item if you wouldn’t use it.  Always have some cord, a knife and a sparking device, but other than that, tailor your bag to YOUR individual METT-TC requirements. After all, getting home safely, is YOUR mission, wherever “home” happens to be during a bad event.

Thanks for reading,

- GLSC Team